Adobe Flash Interview Preparation Guide

Vector graphics" are different from "raster graphics" like jpg, gif, png, bmp graphics. And vector graphics use math formulas to draw animation shapes, while raster graphics save millions of tiny colored dots to draw photos.

Yes It is very laborious work to change a Flash web page quickly. For this reason, you will almost never see a dynamic content page like a news site utilizing Flash for its rapidly-changing content. Instead, Flash is used more for decorative purposes, and for advertising and online gaming purposes.

Let's assume that you have an N80 body in an underwater case and are using underwater TTL strobes. Here you could set flash exposure compensation from the N80 body (assuming the case let you access that control). I'd tend to set the N80 to Standard TTL if I wanted to fiddle with flash levels, though, as in balanced fill-flash modes you don't know what compensation the camera is already adding (i.e., you'll only get repeatable results with Standard TTL).

If you're using an SB-24 or later and a modern Nikon body that doesn't have a built-in flash, you set fill levels on the flash. With your combo, you can set fill by pressing the Minus button on the SB-28 three to five times (-1.0 to -1.7 stops). However, there's a caveat. If you have the camera set to Program (P) exposure mode and the flash to TTL, you're in what is known as a "balanced" mode. In balanced modes, the camera tries to equalize the flash and ambient light levels. But, when everything is on automatic, the camera can only set shutter speeds of 1/60 to 1/250, which might not let the camera set the proper ambient exposure. In dim light, for example, the camera would underexpose the background (though the subject would be lit by the flash). Thus, if you dial in fill flash in this situation, both the ambient light and the flash would be underexposed, ruining your shot. So, the caveat is this: don't set fill flash levels on your SB-28 unless you know that the ambient exposure is going to be correct. For dim light, that may mean you need to set Slow or Rear flash sync; in bright light, that may mean you need to set High Speed (FP) flash sync.

I do (this is true of the SB-24, SB-25, SB-26, SB-28/28DX, SB-80DX). That's because it helps keep a little light from being lost, but more importantly, it provides just a bit of catchlight in the subject's eyes (the bounce directly off the card).

Most nature and scenic professionals use -1.3 to -1.7 stops for their fill flash setting because they are trying to do one thing only: increase shadow detail (an alternate way of saying this: decrease overall scene contrast). Why? Because exposures for slide film need to be biased to the brightest object in the scene (i.e., overexposure of slide film is VERY bad). Since film has a limited dynamic range it can record with reasonable detail, if you set your exposure to put the highlight at the white point, you often lose shadow detail. The purpose of the fill flash, therefore, is to raise the film's response curve at the shadow point without further blowing out the detail. The -1.3 to -1.7 values are often just enough to pull another "stop" of useful shadow detail into an exposure without adding unduly to the highlight exposure. Films like Velvia are especially troublesome,

Let's assume that you have an N80 body in an underwater case and are using underwater TTL strobes. Here you could set flash exposure compensation from the N80 body (assuming the case let you access that control). I'd tend to set the N80 to Standard TTL if I wanted to fiddle with flash levels, though, as in balanced fill-flash modes you don't know what compensation the camera is already adding (i.e., you'll only get repeatable results with Standard TTL).

Yes and no. When you shoot with flash, there are two exposures going on: the flash exposure on the subject and the background exposure. If flash is the main source of light, a stationary subject lit by it should always be sharp, as the slowest Nikon flash duration is about 1/830 of a second. The background, however, very well may go soft or get blurred by poor handholding technique or subject movement. Many photographers have learned to use this to their advantage--there's one style of flash that uses very long shutter speeds and panning/zooming/tilting to purposefully blur the background yet still use the flash to "freeze" the subject.

No because they do not like "blinking things" on their screens, some users choose to disable or not install Flash Player.

While this is partly motivated by fears of Flash viruses and Flash hackers, the greater motivation is disciplining staff. Many managers of private companies do not want their employees playing Flash games at their office computers, so they will ban Flash movies at work through technical blockers on the network. Do not be surprised if your employer chooses to implement a ban of Flash at your office.